Mis Recuerdos, My Memories, of Oaxaca

Santo Domingo Church, Oaxaca Mexico © Susanna Starr

 

story and photos by Susanna Starr

It’s been more than 35 years that I’ve been living and working in the city of Oaxaca, Mexico and in the small outlying villages. Most of my work with the weavers, both buying and designing pieces that will be sold in my New Mexico gallery, is done in a small Zapotec weaving village outside of Oaxaca.

We are now working with the third generation of weavers from that village where we first began, almost four decades ago. Although the weaving village is my main focus, there are always other villages engaged in a craft specific to each of them to visit and explore. Read more at Global Writes

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Riviera Maya – North America’s “New Riviera”

Story by Susanna Starr
Photos courtesy of Riviera Maya/Turner PR

The designation “Riviera Maya” is a fairly recent one. For many years, even after the advent and development of Cancun, then Playa del Carmen and finally Tulum, this magnificent stretch of beach along Mexico’s Caribbean coast, was little explored. When I first arrived in that area in 1973, there were a few narrow sand roads leading to some small places where you could find some basic accommodations. Of course, there was the beautiful resort development of Akumal, still in its early, formative years, but after that, there simply wasn’t much happening. Driving down to Chetumal was an adventure on the gravel roads that traversed long, lonesome stretches of undeveloped jungle.

Riviera Maya Lodging

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Now the entire strip of land from Playa del Carmen to Tulum has been developed with magnificent hotels, many of which are all-inclusive. Other properties are simply upscale, grand hotels owned and operated by world consortiums, designed to entice passersby, as well as vacationers who have made their reservations online. Many look like backdrops for movie scenes: lush, tropical landscapes with sparkling white sand beaches, brilliant turquoise waters and, of course, ubiquitous palm trees swaying in gentle breezes. Read more at Global Writes.

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The soul of the marketplace – Pochote Market, Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, Mexico

Going to any town in Mexico you will somehow find yourself at an outdoor market. Large cities have permanent markets with stalls set up for vendors who rent the spaces on a regular basis. But there are always street or neighborhood markets held weekly often specializing in something specific, such as flowers or crafts. Just passing through the fruit sections in any of these markets virtually compels the visitor to reach for their camera….Read More

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The Mystery of the Maya

Story & Photos by Susanna Starr

Mayan Ruins at Becan – Campeche, Mexico  ©Susanna Starr

In the nineteen seventies, the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico was just becoming accessible to the foreign traveler. Roads from Mexico City led to the Spanish colonial city of Merida, once known as Mayab, a major center of the Maya. Some even ventured as far as the magnificent stretch of beach that would later become the thriving tourist destination of Cancun. A small airport would be built, allowing even more people the opportunity to discover for themselves some of the mystery of the ancient Maya….Read more

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Around and About Bacalar, Yucatan Peninsula, Quintana Roo, Mexico

"Casita" on Laguna Bacalar, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico - photo © Susanna Starr

Just a little more than half an hour away from the city of Chetumal and its airport, and about the same distance as the border with the country of Belize, is the small town of Bacalar, nestled on the shore of the pristine waters of Laguna Bacalar, one of Mexico’s hidden treasures.

Bacalar Wildlife - photo © Susanna Starr

This area, in the southernmost part of the Yucatan Peninsula, is just at the point of developing as a tourist destination for the eco-minded traveler who seeks escape from the larger, often over-developed areas of the northern part of the Peninsula. Just an hour away from the nearest seaport of Mahahual on the Caribbean coast, a stopping point for cruise ships, the laguna is virtually undiscovered by tourism. It has always been known for its spectacular colors, much as the waters of the Caribbean, with its range of hues from emerald greens to azure blues and the famous brilliant arrays of turquoise and aqua. It is commonly referred to as “la laguna de los siete colores” (lagoon of the seven colors).

Becan Mayan Ruins - photo © Susanna Starr

Being sheltered from the ocean’s winds and salt sprays, the fresh waters of Laguna Bacalar provide a gentler, more nurturing feeling, making it ideal for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling and other water sports. Fishing, too, is more of a relaxing sport than the challenge of deep ocean water .For deep-sea fishing, the Caribbean coast is only an hour away, as is the famed nature reserve of Sian k’an.

View of Laguna Bacalar from Rancho Encantado - Photo ©Susanna Starr

In the other direction, south of Bacalar is the capitol of the state, Chetumal, which is located on the bay leading out to the Caribbean ocean. Long a major water route for the Maya, it was also used by the marauding pirates active in the area during their heyday. It wasn’t until the late 1970’s that Quintana Roo became a state, with Chetumal as its capitol. Now a beautiful, tropical city with a broad boulevard along the “bahia,” it is home to the Museum of Mayan Culture, providing a superb introduction to this ancient civilization. This museum has stunning reproductions of ancient Mayan sites in the area as well as a complete representation of the Maya “Tree of Life” extending three levels from the underworld to the topmost branches reaching toward the heavens.

Cocodrilo Dorado Balneario(Golden Aligator swimming hole) near Bacalar - Photo ©Susanna Starr

Just across from the museum is the Mercado, selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to modern electronic equipment. Also available throughout the city are numerous internet access as well as dentists, doctors and hospitals. The restaurants along the “Bahia” provide cool outdoor dining. There is also a zoo and the close proximity to the border with Belize now provides a new, Las Vegas style casino in the “free zone,” connecting the two countries. The country of Belize, with its various cultures and diversity of terrain is often included in vacation plans for this area of the Yucatan Peninsula.

The drive back and forth from Bacalar to Chetumal affords the opportunity to give the traveler the feeling for the small, traditional villages that dot the highway, most of which are populated by contemporary Maya. The Fort, located in the center of the village of Bacalar, was built by Mayan labor when the Spanish first landed in the late 1500’s. Like the charming “zocolo,” or central plaza, the Fort has undergone extensive restoration in the past year, making it a major attraction. The town of Bacalar has retained it’s feeling of authenticity, with no attempt toward tourist oriented activities, but rather remains a town where “real” people carry on their everyday lives. Many of the Mayan women can be seen in their traditional colorfully embroidered huipiles, especially on market day.

Julia Chay - Mayan Chef at Rancho Encantado - Photo ©Susanna Starr

At the south end of the town is the lovely Cenote Azul, located on the edge of a beautiful, palm-fringed cenote, whose depth has never been plumbed. The large, semi-outdoor restaurant is housed in a spacious palapa and serves primarily fresh seafood from the area as well as venison when available. The swimming is wonderful and many people take their bathing suits when going there for lunch. At the north end of town, lies the charming eco retreat/resort of Rancho Encantado with its extensive tropical landscaping and twelve individual casitas scattered along the shore of the Laguna. Well prepared, health-oriented food is served in their palapa restaurant on the water’s edge.

Mouth of the Dragon - Chiccana Mayan Ruins - Photo ©Susanna Starr

Because of the close proximity to some of the most major Mayan sites in the region, the capital city of Chetumal and the border with the country of Belize, the location of Bacalar on the shores of one of the jewels of Mexico, Laguna Bacalar, provides opportunities for exploration of one of the last areas in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico to develop. Its fascinating history and natural ecological beauty has accorded it the status of “pueblo magico” by the Mexican government.

Laguna Bacalar Sunrise - Photo ©Susanna Starr

Where to stay Rancho Encantado, eco-resort

Where to Eat  Rancho Encantado & Cenote Azul

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A return visit to Rancho Encantado, Laguna Bacalar, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico

Massage Hut at Rancho Encantado, Laguna Bacalar - Photo © Susanna Starr

A return visit to Rancho Encantado where we have stayed several time before over the years. 

It was nice being back and being greeted as old friends by several of the staff. One of the nicest things about staying there is the personal service, especially in these days where there is a certain “sameness” in the larger hotels.  Although there certainly have been some changes over the years, the whole region still has the same feeling as when we first found it.  The laguna is just as magical as ever and coming back to our casita after a  day of exploring (once again) the Mayan sites is a beautiful contrast to the jungle.

We did notice a few changes at the Rancho.  One was the increase in the number of catfish that swim out as soon as you walk down the dock.  I guess it’s all the home-baked bread that the guests have been feeding them over the years!  The other is what seems to be an expanded vegetarian menu, really nicely prepared with enough variation to keep it interesting, and for those of us who aren’t vegetarians, the regular menu of fish and chicken is always a winner. And the massages with Mallina are always a special experience.

Whenever we think about “getting away from it all,” Rancho Encantado comes to mind  (and heart).

Visit Rancho Encantado, Eco-Resort here.

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